Mail Call

You know, not really as unobservant as this post makes me out to be. I've commented, at least to Shelly, for several months on the new 90-cent stamp issued by the USPS, the one that features my former home of Guam.


But today, when I opened a letter from Grandma -- and lets face it, in this era of e-mail and next-to-free phone calls across the Pacific, Grandma accounts for the bulk of the mail I get -- I was reminded of this incredibly beautiful stamp yet again. That letter, by the way, took 24 days -- October 5 to October 29 -- to make it from Eastern Iowa to Hong Kong. Is it any wonder nobody sends snail mail anymore?

Back in March, the USPS had this to say about the stamp:

Hagåtña Bay (international price) 90 cents – on sale June 1. The Postal Service will issue this stamp in the Scenic American Landscapes series to honor the Territory of Guam. Located approximately 1,600 miles east of the Philippines in the Pacific Ocean, Guam is the largest and southernmost of the Mariana Islands. Approximately 212 square miles in size — roughly three times the area of Washington, D.C. — Guam is home to a population of approximately 158,000 people, including native Guamanians, known as Chamorro, as well as others of European and Asian descent. Today the island is a popular destination for tourists, with some 1.5 million people visiting the island annually to enjoy its natural beauty. The stamp features a photograph by Michael S. Yamashita of a sunset of Hagåtña Bay in Hagatna, the capital of Guam.

I lived on Guam for three years in the late 1990s. It was a fantastic three-year period: I had an interesting job that gave me incredible access around the region, I learned how to dive and I went snorkeling practically every day. It also was an incredibly expensive place to live, and I'm sure I lost money on the deal.

So thank you, Grandma, for the great Guam stamps. Keep those letters coming!

The Round Robin Visits

Posted by Shelly

40+ years after graduation, my aunt is still in close touch with her college friends, all teachers or retired teachers. They get together twice a year, usually in southern California. However, twice they have traveled overseas together. A few years ago they met in England, and this September the “Round Robin Gang” came to Hong Kong.


One friend and her husband are now working at the Hong Kong Canadian School and we live on the same street. The group sandwiched a trip to Beijing and Xian, China with two long weekends in Hong Kong. We enjoyed having Karen stay with us, meeting everyone and acting as tour guides.


It was fun to hear everyone’s impressions of Hong Kong. One night we went for Chinese food. In Hong Kong fresh seafood is live seafood (people want to choose their own fish from the restaurant’s tank located in front of the shop). A common dish is steamed fish prepared with spring onions, ginger, a bit of soy sauce and a splash of sesame oil. Since the brain, cheeks and eyeballs are considered some of the best parts of the fish, steamed fish is always served whole. This was surprising to the group and Greg further entertained them by eating both eyeballs and the cheeks. [The cheeks were delicious. I ate the eyeballs on a dare. I'd do it again, but probably not without a dare. -- G]

Chickens are also served whole. We ordered a fried chicken. After frying the whole bird, it is cut up into large-bite size pieces in the kitchen and then arranged on the plate to look like a whole bird (head and feet are usually put on the serving plate). Strangely no one wanted to eat the chicken head, but everyone did photograph it.


Hong Kong has very little flat land. There are a lot of hills, stairs and overpasses. Even though the group was in good shape and used to walking, they did find all the stairs a bit tiring. This made me very happy as I am always happy to have an excuse to have a foot massage. Chinese foot massage start with soaking feet in a large wooden bucket filled with hot soapy water or medicinal tea. After about ten minutes of soaking, the massage starts. In addition to treating all the pressure points on the foot, the masseuse usually continues up the leg as far as the knee or mid thigh and sometimes even offers a quick shoulder massage at the end.


Foot massages are painful in the best possible way. Hour long massages cost less than US$10 in China and are US$15-25 here in Hong Kong. Several of the Round Robin had more than one massage and one even branched out to try the “ear candling” service.

Everything You Never Wanted to Know About Dogs and their Poop

Posted by Shelly

Many people in Hong Kong have dogs – both large and small. Dog walkers are supposed to clean up after their dogs when walking them. Most walkers are quite good at this. As soon as a dog starts to squat, the walker will quickly slip a piece of newspaper between the dog's legs to catch, well, whatever drops out.


This is then wrapped up and dropped in the nearest dog poop collection box. I'm not sure what this box says about who walks the dogs in Hong Kong, but it must say something. There is no Chinese on this box, only English and Tagalog, the language spoken by most of the Filipina housekeepers in Hong Kong. Does this mean that the authorities believe that only English-speaking foreigners and Filipinas pick up after their dogs? Or that Chinese never take their dogs for walks? Or, maybe, that dogs owned by Chinese don't poop?


Extra polite dog walkers even carry a squeeze bottle filled with water to dilute any spot where the dog pees. As Hong Kong is mostly cement, this is a nice touch and helps the streets not smell completely like dog urine. Apparently, though, a dog walker recently did not clean up after their dog in front of our building as the following sign was posted last week. You can click on the picture below if you want to read it more easily.

Kill the Germs

Posted by Shelly


Ever since SARS, the Hong Kong population has been extra-cautious regarding personal health issues. The buttons in elevators are often covered with a sheet of plastic with a sign posted indicating that the area is sanitized every 30 minutes. Alcohol or alcohol gel dispensers are regularly located in office building lobbies and restaurants.

And Pizza Express, a local Italian restaurant, reminds you to keep, well, one hand clean:

October Catch-up

Gosh, what a surprise. Six weeks have sped by without a single blog post. Shelly has been doing her part and has written three posts, and I haven't even gotten them posted. I'm going to post a bunch of stuff today without backdating it, but most likely, the last thing you read was September 9.

And just to follow up, the new iPods did finally make it to Hong Kong, and my old iPod held out just long enough to keep me entertained on my daily commute to work and walk home. Thanks to Uncle Larry for sending me a story about iPod costs around the world. Hong Kong is the cheapest place in the world to buy one, so I upgraded at the right time!

Work has been crazy. Somehow, I've taken on way more than I should have. We're in the process of doing some reorganization at the office, and I'm not exactly sure of what my role will be next week, much less next month. In the process of the reorganization (brought about my editor's resignation), my boss's boss's boss came over from London to see what we've been up to (part of the reorganization has changed my boss's boss's boss from someone in Hong Kong to someone in London), and he seemed shocked by how much I've been doing, which gives me hope that I may be able to do less in the future, as he asked me how I could possibly think about the big picture and what's best for the magazine with all the copy I'm churning out. He also called me "the most prolific legal journalist in Asia." I got the feeling that this was a role he did not think I should have to have, which gives me hope for the future.

I also got a nice raise when our new financial year started in October. I will never again get a 17% raise. Hopefully, I will never again be as underpaid as I was prior to the raise.

The reorganization has given me some opportunity to redefine my role at the company. I hope to move a step higher on the organizational chart and become responsible for the magazine I've been writing for. My boss was responsible for much more, and I didn't want to take on her role, which was more of a manager role. I am enjoying my writing assignments way too much right now to give them up completely.

What else is new in Hong Kong? We had company in late September and early October when Shelly's aunt came to visit. She was actually here as part of a group of college friends that still get together periodically. One of the members lives in Hong Kong, and everyone packed up and flew halfway around the world. (Karen's friend introduced us to Happy Valley a year ago, which is how we came to live here. When we recently met friends of Shelly's cousin who were moving here, we invited them to Happy Valley for dinner. They live here now, too, so the circle goes on!) I believe Shelly has a post on Karen's visit that I'll post shortly.

Somehow, I managed to get enough work done that Shelly and I took a week's holiday in Indonesia in mid-October. It was an incredibly relaxing trip. I can only remember one other time when I needed a holiday as badly as I needed this one. I have some photos that I'll post.

So, with turmoil at work and my parents arriving for a week's visit on Friday, my life doesn't appear to be slowing down much. Time is really flying by. I also need to buy a new computer, as the one I'm using has been beset with problems since the beginning. I had a bad memory chip almost immediately, then I broke the screen in Manila, my hard drive died a year ago, and my CD/DVD drive died in April. I've fixed everything except the CD/DVD drive. It's now having trouble turning back on after being shut off, which means I'm leaving it on all the time. I've reached the point that it is more cost-effective to just buy a new machine, and now that the latest update to Apple's operating system is on the shelves, I'll be buying soon.

I'll be buying the extended warranty this time, too. (Though in fairness, at least part of the problems would not have been covered. Shelly and I have each dropped it, so I'm frankly surprised it works at all.) (Shelly would point out that she didn't actually drop it. In truth, Shelly placed it on my desk incautiously and Fat Choy did the actual dropping. Shelly would also probably point out that my desk was too cluttered for her to find a good place to put it, but that's another story.)

September: Where's my iPod?

That brings me mostly up-to-date. September is not apt to be much better for me, work-wise, so I can't promise that I'll be much more prompt this month than I was last. (Actually, I should not have much freelance work, so my evenings will at least be more free...)

Last Wednesday, Apple announced its new iPods, which came just in time for me. I started looking for a new one about two weeks ago and quickly discovered that there weren't many left in Hong Kong. A quick check with Brad revealed that the new iPods were due to be announced soon. When I bought my current iPod in early 2005, I bought it one week before they released a new model, with more features at the same price as I had just paid, so at least I dodged that bullet this time.

But now I'm stuck waiting for the new models to make it to Hong Kong. Some of them are in, but not the one I want. I hate being the fanboy who rolls up to the Apple store every day asking if the new iPods are in yet, but the truth is, my old iPod is lurching towards death, each day getting a bit worse. I've been told the new ones will be in Monday, but I was also told they'd be in Saturday, so....

August: Mahjong

Also in August, we sort of learned how to play mahjong. Mahjong is a very popular game in Hong Kong; you can often hear tiles clacking when you walk the streets, especially on the weekends.

So one evening when we having dinner with some Chinese friends, they decided to teach us.


I can't really say that I learned how to play mahjong. It's like baseball in that while you can quickly understand the basics, there are so many complexities to the game that you'll have to play it over and over and over again before you really start to get it. I mean, I now know the basic rules to mahjong, but if I hadn't had an assistant, I never would have been able to play the game.

We did learn the Chinese character for "fat choy."

August: Singapore

Also in August, we both went to Singapore. This must have been Shelly's 20th trip there, but it was my first. Unfortunately, I was there for just over a day, so I didn't have much opportunity to see much of the city. (I had an oh-so-wonderful schedule of leaving Hong Kong at 8 pm on Wednesday and leaving Singapore at 8:15 am on Friday. It was a terrible way to visit Singapore.)

I was in Singapore for a day for an interview and a few meetings with law firms around the city. In between the meetings, I was able to see a few things, eat some Kenny Rogers chicken and some great Indian food for dinner.


It was rainy much of the day, so I spent more free time than I would have liked to in shopping malls. But I did make sure I visited Singapore's famous Raffles Hotel. I wandered briefly through the lobby and shot a few photos and then wandered back out. I'm sure the rooms are fantastic, based on the lobby and the grounds.

My meetings did give me lots of opportunity to view Singapore from tall buildings.


In the foreground is a tiny part of old Singapore, on both sides of the river. The government and courts are on the far side, and old houses -- now converted mostly to restaurants -- on the near side. Also on the far side, you'll see one of the oldest cricket grounds in Asia -- it's right up there with Hong Kong's. The flying-saucer-like building on the left is the Supreme Court building. After my afternoon meetings, I walked along the river and had dinner. Then, I went back to my room and worked, and then got up really, really early for my flight home.


In such a short visit, it's hard to really report on a city. Singapore has very clean air -- a great change from Hong Kong -- and nice, wide streets, which result in much better traffic flow than Hong Kong has. But I really do prefer old cities, and Singapore is definitely a new city, which makes Hong Kong preferable for me.

August: The Simpsons Movie

My plan was to try to back-date everything to the date it happened, but that's just too much hassle, I'm so far behind. So instead, I'll use this week to post some of what we've been up to for the past month.

One of the highlights of the past month -- for me, at least -- had to be The Simpsons Movie, which try as I might, I could not convince Shelly to see with me. My brother-in-law Jim had better luck convincing Lisa to see the movie, but Lisa was only slightly more enthusiastic about the movie than Shelly would have been.

I did convince Shelly to play around one evening and make avatars on The Simpsons Movie website.


I'm not sure I quite like the nose and mouth on mine, but my wife insists it's accurate. I managed to lose the password to her avatar, so I re-created it without her, but I think I was quite kind in re-creation.

One of us is a hottie. :-)

The Cat Who Eats with a Spork

No, not ours. But it will give Fat Choy and I something to do when Shelly's gone.

Too. Much. Writing.

My brother asked me a good question recently. I had written to him, telling him that I generally produce somewhere in the neighbourhood of 10,000 words a month for the magazine I write for. His response:

Do the 10,000 words per month have to form coherent stories? Or is it strictly a word count?

After this month, I find that to be a particularly good question, because my output this month has been not doubled, but nearly trebled. Late this afternoon I wrote my 28,374th word of the month. And by “of the month,” I really mean “of the past two weeks.” My work has consisted of four chapters of an annual legal directory we publish, four separate stories for the magazine and a massive news section for the same magazine. (I’ve produced well over half the magazine’s content this month, which is – and hopefully shall remain – an aberration.)

It’s little surprise, then, that I haven’t blogged in three weeks. When Brad complained that his RSS feeds weren’t showing new posts, I offered to send him a draft of my chapter on corporate law firms in Vietnam, which he promptly declined.

Smart boy, that Brad. The Laos chapter is much shorter.

***

My day got off to a roaring start this morning.

Shelly is in the US right now, first visiting family and then doing some work, and the cat is feeling her absence. Shelly usually wakes up sometime between 5 and 6, though lately she has been waking up even earlier.

So, at 4:30 this morning, Fat Choy decided it was time to get up. She was very persuasive with her arguments. Or maybe it was that she was very loud. Or maybe it was her repeated head-butts to my face. After finally giving in, I was up at 5 and couldn’t go back to sleep. (I don’t remember the last time I was up at 5, but it must have been to fly somewhere. It almost certainly wasn’t because I *wanted* to be.)

What this boils down to is that, after I put the dishes away, brought in the laundry, hung out more laundry, surfed the Internet, etc., etc., etc., it was 6:30. So I went to work. The No. 1 bus from Happy Valley is very empty at that time of day, which is exactly what Shelly has been telling me.

Oh, and the cat? As I was sitting at my computer at 5:15, she curled up on the sofa and went back to sleep.

***

This evening I’m in the process of updating the blog. You’ll see a couple of things back-dated to the approximate date they actually occurred. I know that mass updates aren’t really appreciated, but I’m sure there is some reason I haven’t been blogging lately.

Oh, yeah. It has something to do with those 28,374 words. Anyone want to read my chapter on Cambodia?

Yesterday Must Have Been An Auspicious Day

Posted by Shelly

Buddhists in Hong Kong pay homage to the gods that inhabit the land. This is done by leaving offerings of food and drink and by burning incense and fake paper money. In return for leaving these gifts for the gods, the Buddhists are asking for the gods to bless the building and the people in it. Depending on how fervent the believer this ritual can take place anywhere between twice a month and several times a day.


I visited a printing company a few months ago. The salesperson who gave me the tour introduced me to his boss who was burning the fake paper money in the hallway of the building. He told me that she did this every time she went through the entrance of the office as a wish for lots of good business to come their way.

As an earlier blog entry mentioned, my co-worker's mother-in-law came and blessed our office shortly after it opened. She brought several foods, incense and money. She lit the money right under the fire alarm. There was plenty of smoke, but fortunately th alarm did not go off requiring 20 floors of office workers to evacuate.

Our apartment building has incense lighting stations in two different areas of the stairwells (on the top floor and a mid-level floor). As far I can tell, incense is lit here twice a month.


Outside of buildings you can often see a small shrine area built into the foundation. This is where the offerings can be left. Common foods to leave for the gods are deep fried pork, steamed yellow cake and fruit.

This weekend must have been an important time to make offerings. On Saturday when I was walking around the track at The Jockey Club, two grounds keepers were offering the most interesting offering I have seen to date - 2 cans of Pepsi Max, 2 bottles of Beer, several Snickers and other snack foods. The beverages were opened (who knows, maybe Chinese Buddhist gods don't have thumbs). By the time I had circled the track a second time, they were done burning the money and had taken the offering away. On Sunday night while walking around the neighborhood I saw 6 groups of people out burning incense or money. This morning on the way to the bus there were several food offerings that had been left out overnight.

Entrance Exams

Posted by Shelly

Since my co-worker’s daughter just went through Hong Kong’s high school entrance exam process, I have learned a lot about the Hong Kong education system.

Hong Kong has a British-style school system. There are 6 years of primary school followed by 5 years of secondary school. Instead of 7th grade or 8th grade, they refer to their year of school as Form 1, Form 2… At the end of Form 5 (11th grade) students have finished their compulsory education. If they want to continue, they need to take a standardized government exam. Most students take tests in 9 or 10 subjects. The test is several days long and is held every spring.

On August 8, the results were announced. A perfect score is 30 points (the total score for your top 5 highest subjects). Most subjects have a total possible score of 5 points, but English is weighed heavier with a total possible score of 8 points. If their scores are high enough, students will continue on the university track and attend an academic high school for an additional 2 years – Forms 6 and 7. At that point they will take their entrance exam for university (A levels and O levels).

Students who don’t do well on the high school entrance exam can transfer to a technical school for Forms 6 and 7. Schools announce the expected minimum test score for acceptance into their Form 6 and 7 program in advance. Hong Kong’s secondary schools are ranked into 4 tiers. Many top tier schools set their expected acceptance level at 16 points or higher.

(Nine boys and 1 girl received perfect scores this year. The girl is only 14. One university contacted the girl and offered to accept her now, without even attending Form 6 or 7. )

At 8:30 am on the morning of August 8th, the students went to their schools to get their test results. If they received a score that meets or exceeds the advertised minimum of the school they want to attend, they turned a Form 6 and 7 application into the school by 11 am. Before 1 pm, the schools had informed each student if they had been accepted. Students who were not accepted had until 2 pm to submit an application to their second choice school, which notified them by 5 pm if they were accepted. This pattern of 2 application timeslots per day will continue through Friday afternoon. The TV news will advertise how many remaining openings there are at each school.

So, if a student received 16 points and had been attending a top tier school but were not accepted by their current school because the spaces were already filled by students with higher results, then the student would have to decide if her 2nd choice school is another top tier school where they may or may not get in, or if she should drop to a B-tier school where she would have a very good chance of being accepted. Each time a student has to apply at a different school, the number of openings will have decreased. It makes for a very stressful 3 days.

200,000 students finished Form 5 this year. There is only room for 45% of them to stay on the university track. If a school had 200 students finish Form 5, they might only have space for 90 students in Form 6. From this they will offer 80 spaces to current students and save 10 spaces for outstanding students from other schools who want to transfer in.

***

Students pay huge amounts of money to private tutors in order to prepare for the exams. In a recent newspaper story, teachers in the public schools were complaining that students were sitting in their classes, ignoring the lectures, and doing their homework for their private tutors.

The tutors' advertisements tend to be over-the-top. This ad, from the back of a bus, is actually very subdued, despite the fact that the guy on the right says he has "Math-e-magic Power" and the guy on the left has (or is part of, I'm not sure) "Super English Force". Something about that phrase tells me that K. Oten is better at teaching test-taking techniques than actual English.

And that's it from here, other than to add that we have "Super Blogging Force".

That's One Confused Storm

As you can see, Pabuk is one confused storm, changing direction yet again. I just wanted to let you know that, at least in the part of Hong Kong where we live, the worst of the rain and wind were over by the time I got home from work. It looks like Pabuk will wear itself over Macau and southern Guandong province, and then will be no more.

So now, it's on to more important questions: Will I make it to The Simpsons Movie tomorrow, or not until later? It (finally) opened here on Thursday, and I've been driving Shelly crazy waiting for it, since it opened pretty much everywhere else in the world two weeks ago.