Back in the US

We returned to the US early in January and have settled back into life on the Eastern Shore. Here is a brief summary of the past few months.

Greg and Fat Choy returned to the US together and Shelly followed a week later. While Fat Choy adjusted well to the motel, our friend Laura's house (where we lived for two weeks) and ultimately our house, she was not a good in-flight companion. Just moments after the wheels left the ground in Hong Kong, Fat Choy found her carrier's fatal flaw and popped out of a velcro opening and headed up the aisle. Fortunately, Greg had his eye on the bag and quickly followed, grabbing her and, with some effort, folding her up and stuffing her back into the bag. Thankfully, she quieted down as the plane reached cruise altitude, only to resume yowling as it began its descent. Fortunately, there was only a change of planes in San Francisco and a non-stop from there to Washington, or it might have been an even longer flight for Greg and Fat Choy than it was. She has adjusted well to the colder Maryland weather. She still sleeps under the blankets with us, but is happy to spend her days on the two porches watching the neighborhood birds, squirrels and cats pass by. We (hopefully correctly) have been thinking that Fat Choy would happier if she were to have a feline companion, so we went to the Humane Society on Saturday and picked out Meatball, a 10-week old kitten that we brought home last week.


So far, they seem to be getting along, after a couple of days of lots of hissing and posturing by Fat Choy. Most of the hissing has subsided and while they're not best friends yet, they are currently enjoying a mostly peaceful coexistence.

Shortly after returning to the US, Shelly transferred from the international department to the purchasing department. Other than regularly working 11 hour days she really enjoys her new position.

Greg is working for his previous Hong Kong employer as a more-or-less permanent freelancer. He is also happy to be back at H&R Block doing taxes. Since there is now a district office in Salisbury, Greg will be able to continue working for them in the off season dealing with the messy tax issues – IRS audits and all that.

In February, Shelly took one last trip for the international department to Mersin, Turkey. Even though it was only a 3-day trip, she was able to spend one day sightseeing. This part of Turkey (Mediterranean Coast near Cyprus) has over 5,000 ancient ruins. She saw several castles and a church located at the bottom of a large crater that was built by the followers of Paul in the 5th century. The food was wonderful – yogurt, goat cheese, eggplant salads, bread (one loaf was 5ft long – like a giant naan – break off your section and pass it down the table), grilled meats and squid. The hospitality was also wonderful.


Two weekends ago, we flew to Iowa to attend Greg’s grandmother’s 90th birthday celebration. There was a tiara, limo ride, dinner for 100 friends and (sadly) false rumors that a stripper had been hired. In addition to attending the party and a breakfast with the extended family, we toured Herbert Hoover's birthplace and presidential museum-library (and his outhouse), wandered around the University of Iowa, visited the first capital (and capitol) of Iowa, saw where Greg was born (and lived for the first few years of his life) and toured Grant Wood’s art studio (where American Gothic was painted). [Secretly, I think Shelly is starting to like Iowa -- G]

The birthday girl

Greg calls on the Hoovers

Shelly pays a visit to the Hoover's outhouse

Iowa's first capitol, in its first capital

This spring we are looking forward to planting the vegetable garden, a visit from Shelly’s sister, going camping, visiting Greg’s brother and seeing their new house and vacationing overseas (Greg’s choice for the destination this year). We will also need to get to the beach – we are only 45 minutes away and our only trip so far was on a cold, blustery Friday evening.

Bali

Posted by Shelly


In October we spent a week in Bali, Indonesia. The first few days were spent at a beautiful hotel on the rural east coast. Other than early morning or late afternoon walks up the coast we never left the hotel property. The hotel was on a rocky beach from where hundreds of local fisherman depart every morning at 4:30am and return three hours later with buckets full of fish (barracuda were biting when we were there). We snorkeled, swam in the pool, read, napped, and enjoyed massages.



After four days of complete relaxation we hired a car and toured the island. We stopped at Tenganan Village that still follows a traditional tribal lifestyle and saw some 14th century cliff carvings at Yeh Pulu.



We spent the second half of the week in Ubud. Ubud is in the middle of Bali and is surrounded by rice terraces. Many artisans live in Ubud and the surrounding villages resulting in wonderful shopping opportunites.

Batik is one of the types of art that is famous in Bali. Greg and I took a batik making class from Nyoman Suradnya, an artist who shows his work internationally. This was my first time to batik since 5th grade art class. First we drew our design on stretched cotton and then we copied our design with melted wax. Next we used watercolors to paint the cotton. Blending is a lot harder than one might expect. The next step involved painting over all the watercolors (leaving the background blank) with a second coat of wax. Then the cotton was dipped in indigo and dunked in boiling water to remove the wax and set the colors. We spent more than 5 hours in the artist’s studio (beautiful open air buildings in the family courtyard).



Bali is 95% Hindu so the local dance performances are based on traditional Hindu stories. One night we went to see the Kecak Dance, which is based on the Hindu epic Ramayana and tells the story of Prince Rama and his dramatic rescue of Princess Sita, who had been kidnapped by the King of Lanka. Perhaps most impressive was the continual chanting of more than 100 men, who clicked their way through an hour of "chak-achak-achaka" sounds. The show ended with a dancer in a trance who ran around through very hot coals.



Both Hindu temples and flowers are plentiful in Ubud. Often the statues of the gods at the temple gates get fresh flowers tucked behind their ears. Offerings are made to the gods for every pot of rice that is made. Offering plates including rice and spices and flowers are put on the grounds and somewhere high up. The high offerings are for the good gods and the ones on the ground are to appease the bad gods. In some instances even the family scooter gets an offering.



75% of Balinese food uses a mixture of about 12 spices as the base seasoning. We took a cooking class at a local restaurant. The chef spent over an hour introducing us to new spices. We made satay, which tastes much better when stalks of lemon grass are used instead of wood skewers. We also made chicken curry, coconut vegetable salad, grilled mackerel, and coconut milk shrimp.



Other than artisans and shopping, Ubud is also famous for the Monkey Forrest. Greg went, bought a bunch of bananas and wisely hid them in his backpack so that he would be able to navigate his way through a horde of monkeys. According to his story, he sat down on a bench and unzipped his backpack just enough to reach in pull out a banana. Before he was able to pull a single banana out, a rather large monkey had climbed on top of Greg's backpack, bared his teeth at Greg and stolen the whole bunch from him. At least she shared.


Not sure where our next trip will take us, but I am already looking forward to it.

Five Years of Wedded (Mostly) Bliss

We celebrated our fifth -- ! -- anniversary last month, and did what all good married couples should do. We went to China.

We initially thought of that Paris of the Pearl River, Shenzhen, renowned for its Wal*Marts and masses of Hong Kong shoppers and factories and, well, little else. So we turned our eyes northward, and headed instead for somewhere that wasn't Shenzhen.

Guangzhou fit the bill, and while its reputation as a prime tourist destination is not exactly sparkling, we found it to be an interesting city to spend the weekend wandering.

We rolled into Guangzhou's eastern train station, where all rail traffic from Hong Kong arrives, late Saturday morning, and, upon seeing an incredibly long queue, immediately abandoned our plans to take a taxi to our hotel and opted instead for the subway, which got us into the city centre, where we then hailed a taxi completely without a queue. The thing about many Chinese cities is that the blocks are incredibly long and the cities incredibly spread out. Factor in that the best hotel deal was not immediately adjacent to a subway line, and we ended up in more than a few taxis. (In retrospect, there's probably a reason our hotel was cheaper than one that was right on the subway line, but I digress.)

We wandered into a Brazilian restaurant for lunch, which, of course, is exactly what you think of when you think of Guangzhou. But this was just the first of many pleasant surprises we found in the city. We spent an interesting hour at the Museum of the Peasant Movement Institute, where I saw what I am quite certain is my lifetime allotment of pictures of Mao. We then visited a museum full of artifacts from the Nanyue King's tomb. If you ever need to see a life-size shroud made out of jade and red thread, this is the place to be. When we rented MP3 players for the guided audio tour, we had to leave a deposit of RMB400 (US$53). The clerk wrote down the serial numbers of each of the four RMB100 notes Shelly left, and we got the same four notes back. It might have been interesting to pay with 20s.

We finally ended up at the Chen Clan's Ancestral Hall, which proved to be quite photogenic both inside ...


...and in the backyard sculpture garden.


Saturday evening, we decided to take a cruise on the Pearl River. While it had the risk of being cheesy and touristy, it also had the benefit of being cheap. We finally found a small "Muslim food" restaurant for dinner, where Shelly had the best (and freshest and longest) noodles I have ever tasted. (Sadly, in my quest for the perfect fried rice, I ordered fried rice. This cook playing with noodles in the front window should have been my first clue to order noodles, not rice. After all, he wasn't making rice.)


Total cost for an anniversary dinner for two: about US$2.50.

Our cruise turned out to be really nice, and very popular. After the traditional Cantonese stampede to get on the ship, we all found out that we had assigned seats. Not that you couldn't change -- the boat was only one-third full, probably because there is so much competition for evening cruises on the Pearl River. There was a continual parade of boats all lit up with neon both in front of us and behind us for the duration of the cruise. I understand why it is such a popular evening activity: Guangzhou was quite fetching from the river, and the water is cleaner than I expected it would be.


On Sunday morning, we headed to the market, which was closed, and then across the river to Shamian Island, which is notable for at least two things. First, Guangzhou seems to have preserved more of its colonial past on Shamian Island than Hong Kong has in all of Hong Kong. This is obviously not really true, but the buildings haven't been torn down to build highways, the old British post boxes are still standing, and the island feels nothing like part of a massive Chinese city.

The other thing Shamian is notable for is for hosting huge numbers of Americans who have come to Guangzhou to adopt a baby. The US consulate is next door to a large hotel, which is apparently where everyone stays while they're in the adoption process. We felt quite out of place when we wandered through the lobby, as we were the only American couple there that wasn't pushing a stroller.


Shamian is also a peaceful place, with few cars and lots of parks to wander through. As we were leaving, a man stopped us.

"Are you here to adopt Chinese baby?" he asked.

"No, we're just looking," I replied, which Shelly pointed out probably wasn't the best choice of words.

I ended up chatting with the guy for a few minutes, and learned that he brings his son to Shamian every Sunday to sit on a park bench and do his homework. "Other parks aren't free like Shamian is," he explained. "And here, I can practice my English."

On our way back to the market, we even found out why the river is so clean. There's a guy who paddles around in his little boat, picking up all the trash floating on the surface.

Mail Call

You know, not really as unobservant as this post makes me out to be. I've commented, at least to Shelly, for several months on the new 90-cent stamp issued by the USPS, the one that features my former home of Guam.


But today, when I opened a letter from Grandma -- and lets face it, in this era of e-mail and next-to-free phone calls across the Pacific, Grandma accounts for the bulk of the mail I get -- I was reminded of this incredibly beautiful stamp yet again. That letter, by the way, took 24 days -- October 5 to October 29 -- to make it from Eastern Iowa to Hong Kong. Is it any wonder nobody sends snail mail anymore?

Back in March, the USPS had this to say about the stamp:

Hagåtña Bay (international price) 90 cents – on sale June 1. The Postal Service will issue this stamp in the Scenic American Landscapes series to honor the Territory of Guam. Located approximately 1,600 miles east of the Philippines in the Pacific Ocean, Guam is the largest and southernmost of the Mariana Islands. Approximately 212 square miles in size — roughly three times the area of Washington, D.C. — Guam is home to a population of approximately 158,000 people, including native Guamanians, known as Chamorro, as well as others of European and Asian descent. Today the island is a popular destination for tourists, with some 1.5 million people visiting the island annually to enjoy its natural beauty. The stamp features a photograph by Michael S. Yamashita of a sunset of Hagåtña Bay in Hagatna, the capital of Guam.

I lived on Guam for three years in the late 1990s. It was a fantastic three-year period: I had an interesting job that gave me incredible access around the region, I learned how to dive and I went snorkeling practically every day. It also was an incredibly expensive place to live, and I'm sure I lost money on the deal.

So thank you, Grandma, for the great Guam stamps. Keep those letters coming!

The Round Robin Visits

Posted by Shelly

40+ years after graduation, my aunt is still in close touch with her college friends, all teachers or retired teachers. They get together twice a year, usually in southern California. However, twice they have traveled overseas together. A few years ago they met in England, and this September the “Round Robin Gang” came to Hong Kong.


One friend and her husband are now working at the Hong Kong Canadian School and we live on the same street. The group sandwiched a trip to Beijing and Xian, China with two long weekends in Hong Kong. We enjoyed having Karen stay with us, meeting everyone and acting as tour guides.


It was fun to hear everyone’s impressions of Hong Kong. One night we went for Chinese food. In Hong Kong fresh seafood is live seafood (people want to choose their own fish from the restaurant’s tank located in front of the shop). A common dish is steamed fish prepared with spring onions, ginger, a bit of soy sauce and a splash of sesame oil. Since the brain, cheeks and eyeballs are considered some of the best parts of the fish, steamed fish is always served whole. This was surprising to the group and Greg further entertained them by eating both eyeballs and the cheeks. [The cheeks were delicious. I ate the eyeballs on a dare. I'd do it again, but probably not without a dare. -- G]

Chickens are also served whole. We ordered a fried chicken. After frying the whole bird, it is cut up into large-bite size pieces in the kitchen and then arranged on the plate to look like a whole bird (head and feet are usually put on the serving plate). Strangely no one wanted to eat the chicken head, but everyone did photograph it.


Hong Kong has very little flat land. There are a lot of hills, stairs and overpasses. Even though the group was in good shape and used to walking, they did find all the stairs a bit tiring. This made me very happy as I am always happy to have an excuse to have a foot massage. Chinese foot massage start with soaking feet in a large wooden bucket filled with hot soapy water or medicinal tea. After about ten minutes of soaking, the massage starts. In addition to treating all the pressure points on the foot, the masseuse usually continues up the leg as far as the knee or mid thigh and sometimes even offers a quick shoulder massage at the end.


Foot massages are painful in the best possible way. Hour long massages cost less than US$10 in China and are US$15-25 here in Hong Kong. Several of the Round Robin had more than one massage and one even branched out to try the “ear candling” service.

Everything You Never Wanted to Know About Dogs and their Poop

Posted by Shelly

Many people in Hong Kong have dogs – both large and small. Dog walkers are supposed to clean up after their dogs when walking them. Most walkers are quite good at this. As soon as a dog starts to squat, the walker will quickly slip a piece of newspaper between the dog's legs to catch, well, whatever drops out.


This is then wrapped up and dropped in the nearest dog poop collection box. I'm not sure what this box says about who walks the dogs in Hong Kong, but it must say something. There is no Chinese on this box, only English and Tagalog, the language spoken by most of the Filipina housekeepers in Hong Kong. Does this mean that the authorities believe that only English-speaking foreigners and Filipinas pick up after their dogs? Or that Chinese never take their dogs for walks? Or, maybe, that dogs owned by Chinese don't poop?


Extra polite dog walkers even carry a squeeze bottle filled with water to dilute any spot where the dog pees. As Hong Kong is mostly cement, this is a nice touch and helps the streets not smell completely like dog urine. Apparently, though, a dog walker recently did not clean up after their dog in front of our building as the following sign was posted last week. You can click on the picture below if you want to read it more easily.

Kill the Germs

Posted by Shelly


Ever since SARS, the Hong Kong population has been extra-cautious regarding personal health issues. The buttons in elevators are often covered with a sheet of plastic with a sign posted indicating that the area is sanitized every 30 minutes. Alcohol or alcohol gel dispensers are regularly located in office building lobbies and restaurants.

And Pizza Express, a local Italian restaurant, reminds you to keep, well, one hand clean:

October Catch-up

Gosh, what a surprise. Six weeks have sped by without a single blog post. Shelly has been doing her part and has written three posts, and I haven't even gotten them posted. I'm going to post a bunch of stuff today without backdating it, but most likely, the last thing you read was September 9.

And just to follow up, the new iPods did finally make it to Hong Kong, and my old iPod held out just long enough to keep me entertained on my daily commute to work and walk home. Thanks to Uncle Larry for sending me a story about iPod costs around the world. Hong Kong is the cheapest place in the world to buy one, so I upgraded at the right time!

Work has been crazy. Somehow, I've taken on way more than I should have. We're in the process of doing some reorganization at the office, and I'm not exactly sure of what my role will be next week, much less next month. In the process of the reorganization (brought about my editor's resignation), my boss's boss's boss came over from London to see what we've been up to (part of the reorganization has changed my boss's boss's boss from someone in Hong Kong to someone in London), and he seemed shocked by how much I've been doing, which gives me hope that I may be able to do less in the future, as he asked me how I could possibly think about the big picture and what's best for the magazine with all the copy I'm churning out. He also called me "the most prolific legal journalist in Asia." I got the feeling that this was a role he did not think I should have to have, which gives me hope for the future.

I also got a nice raise when our new financial year started in October. I will never again get a 17% raise. Hopefully, I will never again be as underpaid as I was prior to the raise.

The reorganization has given me some opportunity to redefine my role at the company. I hope to move a step higher on the organizational chart and become responsible for the magazine I've been writing for. My boss was responsible for much more, and I didn't want to take on her role, which was more of a manager role. I am enjoying my writing assignments way too much right now to give them up completely.

What else is new in Hong Kong? We had company in late September and early October when Shelly's aunt came to visit. She was actually here as part of a group of college friends that still get together periodically. One of the members lives in Hong Kong, and everyone packed up and flew halfway around the world. (Karen's friend introduced us to Happy Valley a year ago, which is how we came to live here. When we recently met friends of Shelly's cousin who were moving here, we invited them to Happy Valley for dinner. They live here now, too, so the circle goes on!) I believe Shelly has a post on Karen's visit that I'll post shortly.

Somehow, I managed to get enough work done that Shelly and I took a week's holiday in Indonesia in mid-October. It was an incredibly relaxing trip. I can only remember one other time when I needed a holiday as badly as I needed this one. I have some photos that I'll post.

So, with turmoil at work and my parents arriving for a week's visit on Friday, my life doesn't appear to be slowing down much. Time is really flying by. I also need to buy a new computer, as the one I'm using has been beset with problems since the beginning. I had a bad memory chip almost immediately, then I broke the screen in Manila, my hard drive died a year ago, and my CD/DVD drive died in April. I've fixed everything except the CD/DVD drive. It's now having trouble turning back on after being shut off, which means I'm leaving it on all the time. I've reached the point that it is more cost-effective to just buy a new machine, and now that the latest update to Apple's operating system is on the shelves, I'll be buying soon.

I'll be buying the extended warranty this time, too. (Though in fairness, at least part of the problems would not have been covered. Shelly and I have each dropped it, so I'm frankly surprised it works at all.) (Shelly would point out that she didn't actually drop it. In truth, Shelly placed it on my desk incautiously and Fat Choy did the actual dropping. Shelly would also probably point out that my desk was too cluttered for her to find a good place to put it, but that's another story.)

September: Where's my iPod?

That brings me mostly up-to-date. September is not apt to be much better for me, work-wise, so I can't promise that I'll be much more prompt this month than I was last. (Actually, I should not have much freelance work, so my evenings will at least be more free...)

Last Wednesday, Apple announced its new iPods, which came just in time for me. I started looking for a new one about two weeks ago and quickly discovered that there weren't many left in Hong Kong. A quick check with Brad revealed that the new iPods were due to be announced soon. When I bought my current iPod in early 2005, I bought it one week before they released a new model, with more features at the same price as I had just paid, so at least I dodged that bullet this time.

But now I'm stuck waiting for the new models to make it to Hong Kong. Some of them are in, but not the one I want. I hate being the fanboy who rolls up to the Apple store every day asking if the new iPods are in yet, but the truth is, my old iPod is lurching towards death, each day getting a bit worse. I've been told the new ones will be in Monday, but I was also told they'd be in Saturday, so....

August: Mahjong

Also in August, we sort of learned how to play mahjong. Mahjong is a very popular game in Hong Kong; you can often hear tiles clacking when you walk the streets, especially on the weekends.

So one evening when we having dinner with some Chinese friends, they decided to teach us.


I can't really say that I learned how to play mahjong. It's like baseball in that while you can quickly understand the basics, there are so many complexities to the game that you'll have to play it over and over and over again before you really start to get it. I mean, I now know the basic rules to mahjong, but if I hadn't had an assistant, I never would have been able to play the game.

We did learn the Chinese character for "fat choy."

August: Singapore

Also in August, we both went to Singapore. This must have been Shelly's 20th trip there, but it was my first. Unfortunately, I was there for just over a day, so I didn't have much opportunity to see much of the city. (I had an oh-so-wonderful schedule of leaving Hong Kong at 8 pm on Wednesday and leaving Singapore at 8:15 am on Friday. It was a terrible way to visit Singapore.)

I was in Singapore for a day for an interview and a few meetings with law firms around the city. In between the meetings, I was able to see a few things, eat some Kenny Rogers chicken and some great Indian food for dinner.


It was rainy much of the day, so I spent more free time than I would have liked to in shopping malls. But I did make sure I visited Singapore's famous Raffles Hotel. I wandered briefly through the lobby and shot a few photos and then wandered back out. I'm sure the rooms are fantastic, based on the lobby and the grounds.

My meetings did give me lots of opportunity to view Singapore from tall buildings.


In the foreground is a tiny part of old Singapore, on both sides of the river. The government and courts are on the far side, and old houses -- now converted mostly to restaurants -- on the near side. Also on the far side, you'll see one of the oldest cricket grounds in Asia -- it's right up there with Hong Kong's. The flying-saucer-like building on the left is the Supreme Court building. After my afternoon meetings, I walked along the river and had dinner. Then, I went back to my room and worked, and then got up really, really early for my flight home.


In such a short visit, it's hard to really report on a city. Singapore has very clean air -- a great change from Hong Kong -- and nice, wide streets, which result in much better traffic flow than Hong Kong has. But I really do prefer old cities, and Singapore is definitely a new city, which makes Hong Kong preferable for me.

August: The Simpsons Movie

My plan was to try to back-date everything to the date it happened, but that's just too much hassle, I'm so far behind. So instead, I'll use this week to post some of what we've been up to for the past month.

One of the highlights of the past month -- for me, at least -- had to be The Simpsons Movie, which try as I might, I could not convince Shelly to see with me. My brother-in-law Jim had better luck convincing Lisa to see the movie, but Lisa was only slightly more enthusiastic about the movie than Shelly would have been.

I did convince Shelly to play around one evening and make avatars on The Simpsons Movie website.


I'm not sure I quite like the nose and mouth on mine, but my wife insists it's accurate. I managed to lose the password to her avatar, so I re-created it without her, but I think I was quite kind in re-creation.

One of us is a hottie. :-)

The Cat Who Eats with a Spork

No, not ours. But it will give Fat Choy and I something to do when Shelly's gone.

Too. Much. Writing.

My brother asked me a good question recently. I had written to him, telling him that I generally produce somewhere in the neighbourhood of 10,000 words a month for the magazine I write for. His response:

Do the 10,000 words per month have to form coherent stories? Or is it strictly a word count?

After this month, I find that to be a particularly good question, because my output this month has been not doubled, but nearly trebled. Late this afternoon I wrote my 28,374th word of the month. And by “of the month,” I really mean “of the past two weeks.” My work has consisted of four chapters of an annual legal directory we publish, four separate stories for the magazine and a massive news section for the same magazine. (I’ve produced well over half the magazine’s content this month, which is – and hopefully shall remain – an aberration.)

It’s little surprise, then, that I haven’t blogged in three weeks. When Brad complained that his RSS feeds weren’t showing new posts, I offered to send him a draft of my chapter on corporate law firms in Vietnam, which he promptly declined.

Smart boy, that Brad. The Laos chapter is much shorter.

***

My day got off to a roaring start this morning.

Shelly is in the US right now, first visiting family and then doing some work, and the cat is feeling her absence. Shelly usually wakes up sometime between 5 and 6, though lately she has been waking up even earlier.

So, at 4:30 this morning, Fat Choy decided it was time to get up. She was very persuasive with her arguments. Or maybe it was that she was very loud. Or maybe it was her repeated head-butts to my face. After finally giving in, I was up at 5 and couldn’t go back to sleep. (I don’t remember the last time I was up at 5, but it must have been to fly somewhere. It almost certainly wasn’t because I *wanted* to be.)

What this boils down to is that, after I put the dishes away, brought in the laundry, hung out more laundry, surfed the Internet, etc., etc., etc., it was 6:30. So I went to work. The No. 1 bus from Happy Valley is very empty at that time of day, which is exactly what Shelly has been telling me.

Oh, and the cat? As I was sitting at my computer at 5:15, she curled up on the sofa and went back to sleep.

***

This evening I’m in the process of updating the blog. You’ll see a couple of things back-dated to the approximate date they actually occurred. I know that mass updates aren’t really appreciated, but I’m sure there is some reason I haven’t been blogging lately.

Oh, yeah. It has something to do with those 28,374 words. Anyone want to read my chapter on Cambodia?